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It's pumpkin season and my favourite season, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a wonderful balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which give so much more flavour to the layers of rice and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week begins around early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, comforting, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and assemble all components on the day you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the curry base. Heat the clarified butter in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until tender. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the remaining onions, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yogurt and cook for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, place lid and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, place a spoonful of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon one portion the spiced vegetables, then layer with half the cooked grains. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining rice. Finish with the remaining ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Remove of the heat, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and serve with raita and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a dish using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. This mixture also features in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Put the cooking oil in a large frying pan or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and fry, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, cook for a minute, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount liquid to the pot, season with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the heat, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with chapatis or naan.